SOS Travel Guide to London

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SOS Travel Guide to London

Buckingham Palace from St. James Park (Credit: Samantha Sault)

As I’ve written, London doesn’t grab you like the sparkling Eiffel Tower, but it draws you in slowly, with a charming nod to the past while setting cultural and design trends for the future, with streets you’ve read about in your favorite novels now lined with your favorite cafes and shops, with fragrant parks and fresh air and pots of tea by fireplaces, and with severely underrated cuisine.

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2012 at Smithfield Market (Credit: Samantha Sault)

Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2012 at Smithfield Market (Credit: Samantha Sault)

I’ve spent time in all four of the world’s fashion capitals, and several cities that might deserve the title, and without a doubt, London reigns above them all. Here’s a London travel guide for the smart traveler who appreciates style.

Sleep

It can be difficult to find a hotel in London. If you’re not careful, you’ll either spend all your shopping money on just one night—or you’ll end up in a “charming” hovel, with a lumpy bed, poor ventilation, and a slanted ceiling that requires anyone over 5’2” to slump. I’d recommend you first check the InterContinental London Westminster (22-28 Broadway, SW1), which opened in November 2012, for modern accommodations a quick walk from Buckingham Palace, plus good service and a tube stop across the street. (While I haven’t eaten at the restaurant, The Diplomat also says the American barbecue is even better than most he’s had in his Southern hometown.)

You also can’t go wrong with the brand’s more affordable boutique property, the Hotel Indigo London Paddington (16 London Street, W2), with equally clean, comfortable, modern rooms steps away from Paddington Station and a leisurely walk to the most delicious shwarma in the city.

If you prefer Brooklyn to the Upper East Side, another option is Shoreditch House (Ebor Street, E1), a former warehouse in East London turned members’ club where the city’s fashion crowd enjoys cocktails, organic spa treatments, and a rooftop pool and garden. I’ve only gone there for Fashion Week parties, but you don’t need to be a member to book one of the 26 reasonably priced bedrooms. (And if you are a member of Soho House, or a number of other members’ clubs in the United Kingdom or North America, you can take advantage of special rates.)

I’m satisfied with the InterContinental properties, but someday, when I have a bestseller on Amazon or win the lottery, Claridge’s (49 Brook Street, W1) will be my home away from home. There’s nothing like the five-star bastion of luxury with original Art Deco décor and impeccable service. For now, however, it’s my standby for champagne cocktails and eavesdropping on American diplomats and bankers.

Dine 

I’ve never understood London’s bad reputation when it comes to food. If you skip the tourist steakhouses around Piccadilly Circus, I’m convinced you’ll never have a bad meal, but I do have a few favorite spots.

Let's just say that I don't understand the bad reputation London has for its cuisine. (Credit: The Diplomat)

Let’s just say that I don’t understand the bad reputation London has for its cuisine. (Credit: The Diplomat)

Whether dining on Dover sole at a chic café in Mayfair, or a pork butty at one of the markets, London’s fresh, local, unpretentious cooking is unforgettable, in the best way. On my recent birthday trip, I had one of the most enjoyable meals in a long time at J. Sheekey (28-34 St. Martin’s Court, WC2), the fish house and oyster bar frequented by Kevin Spacey, Kate Moss, and in-the-know residents. You won’t find any newfangled “foodie” food here—just the freshest fish, lobster, and oysters, paired with farm-fresh vegetables, addictive chips, and reasonably priced bottles of champagne. There are many excellent gastropubs and cafes in the city, but my standbys include The Botanist (7 Sloane Square, SW1) for an elegant yet relaxed dinner, and The Wolseley (160 Piccadilly, W1) for a fashionable lunch or late-night bite. And if I’m heading to a party in Shoreditch, I’ll book dinner at Mark Hix’s The Tramshed (32 Rivington Street, EC2) for simply excellent roast chicken and cocktails alongside artwork by Damien Hirst.

Borough Market, one of my favorite spots in the world to stuff my face. (Credit: Samantha Sault)

I also always visit the Borough Market (8 Southwark Street, SE1)—bring cash, and go hungry. I’m usually seduced by the smells at Hobbs Meat Roast, where I devour the roast pork baguette with stuffing, applesauce, and hot mustard, or Kappacasein for melt-in-your-mouth cheddar and leeks on toasted sourdough. (Sometimes, I get both.) The Diplomat likes the Posh Banger Boys for Toulouse with chili sauce. Make sure you save room for pastries or fudge, and if you’re thirsty, sample a cider or two.

If you like your bangers, you can't miss the Posh Banger Boys at Borough Market. (Credit: Samantha Sault)

If you like your bangers, you can’t miss the Posh Banger Boys at Borough Market. (Credit: Samantha Sault)

London is incredibly diverse, and accordingly, you can find superb cuisine from all corners of the world. L’Auture (5B Shepherd Street, W1) is perhaps one of the only bistros serving Polish and Mexican fare, and it’s perfect for a casual dinner or romantic pierogis and enchiladas with a bottle of red. When I work up an appetite while shopping in Seven Dials, I stop by Pix (63 Neal Street, WC2) for tapas and glass (or three) of cava. And when I have cocktails for dinner (see below), I end my night with the crave-worthy shwarma at Ranoush Juice (43 Edgware Road, W2).

Drink 

It used to be difficult to find a decent drink in London after 10 p.m without a club membership, and The Diplomat was thrilled that he could tag along to late-night Fashion Week parties at Shoreditch House or the Hospital Club. In the past couple years, however, there are many trendy bars serving into the wee hours popping up all over the city. Still, I think the beautiful bars at Claridge’s (49 Brook Street, W1) and The Dorchester (53 Park Lane, W1), which is like something out of a James Bond movie, serve the very best beverages. If I haven’t succumbed to jetlag by last call, I like the Experimental Cocktail Club (13A Gerrard Street, W1), a sexy speakeasy behind an unassuming door in Chinatown.

Claridge's Bar (Credit: David Collins Studio)

Claridge’s Bar (Credit: David Collins Studio)

When it comes to pubs, the older, the better. Cittie of Yorke (22 High Holborn, W1) is one of the oldest, and a cozy option for your cider and fish ‘n’ chips. And after shopping at Spitalfields Market, grab a pint and some Instagrams at The Old Blue Last (38 Great Eastern Street, EC2).

See 

Truthfully, I haven’t done a ton of sightseeing in London, but plenty of other guides can tell you the key sights. I encourage you to walk as much as possible, especially through Hyde Park and St. James Park, which are scenes out of fairy tales on sunny days.

Buckingham Palace from St. James Park (Credit: Samantha Sault)

View of the London Eye from St. James Park (Credit: Samantha Sault)

I do try to squeeze in a museum in between shows and boutique openings. If you love contemporary art and design, the Tate Modern (Bankside, SE1) and Design Museum (28 Shad Thames, SE1) are must visits. (Any fashion fans visiting soon will definitely want to catch the Paul Smith exhibit at the Design Museum, which closes for good on June 22, 2014.)

Exploring the Paul Smith exhibit at the Design Museum (Credit: Samantha Sault)

Exploring the Paul Smith exhibit at the Design Museum (Credit: Samantha Sault)

Shop

If there’s one place I like to shop more than Hong Kong, it’s London, due to the variety of high-quality, well-tailored clothing at all price points. Whether you’re looking to invest in handbag you’ll keep forever, or just want to update your wardrobe with accessible, fashion-forward pieces that no one will have back home, you definitely want to make time to shop–and be sure to ask for your form to get the V.A.T. refund at the airport.

If you’re willing to put up with the tourists, the serious shopper will not want to skip Oxford Street. You can spend hours in the Topshop Flagship (216 Oxford Street, W1), especially in the basement, where you’ll find vintage and up-and-coming British designers as well as Hersheshons Blow Dry Bar, though I prefer the smaller branch on the Strand (60/64 Strand, WC2) to peruse an edited selection in peace. Selfridges (400 Oxford Street, W1) boasts the best shoe departments for women and men, along with pretty much any high-end designer you could desire, and down the street, Uniqlo (311 Oxford Street, W1) has cheap basics that will last more than one season.

The ideal taxi for Fashion Week, don't you think? (Credit: Samantha Sault)

The ideal taxi for Fashion Week, don’t you think? (Credit: Samantha Sault)

To shop like Kate Middleton, head to Covent Garden and Seven Dials, where you’ll find British brands like Karen Millen, Reiss, Ted Baker, and Whistles, to name a few, plus high-end heritage labels like Burberry, Mulberry, and Paul Smith. To shop like one of her in-laws, or a sheikh, head to Knightsbridge, though I much prefer the service and overall experience at Harvey Nichols (109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1) to the overwhelming, touristy Harrods. To shop like The Diplomat…well, I won’t give away his wardrobe secrets, but if you can’t find the superior men’s clothing on Jermyn Street or Savile Row, you’re definitely not paying attention.

I skip the markets in Hong Kong, but not here. On Fridays, go to the Portobello Road Market (Notting Hill, W1) to shop local wares and antiques. If you’re looking for a special piece of jewelry, I suggest you visit Hirst Antiques (59 Pembridge Road, W1), where I picked up some stunning Art Deco pieces recently. On Sundays, you’ll find emerging designers and more vintage treasures at Spitalfields Market (16 Horner Square and around Liverpool Street, E1).

Hirst Antiques in Notting Hill (Credit: Samantha Sault)

Hirst Antiques in Notting Hill (Credit: Samantha Sault)

Explore

With so many flights out of Heathrow, London is an excellent first stop before other destinations in Europe, Africa, and the Middle East–but give yourself plenty of time to explore the British capital. If you have an extra day, I recommend taking a Thames river cruise to Greenwich. The visitors center is quite interesting, and if it’s too rainy to hike up to the Royal Observatory, you can hide away for a few hours by the fire in The Coach & Horses (Greenwich Market, SE1).

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Taking a cruise along the River Thames to Greenwich (Credit: Samantha Sault)

Next Trip

It’s fun to try new restaurants and lounges, but truthfully, I’m often a little disappointed when I try, say, a much-hyped punch bar rather than stick to my standbys. I would, however, love to stick around long enough to take a day trip to Oxford or perhaps a weekend in the country.

Have a question about London or a new place I should try on my next visit? Leave it in the comments! And stay tuned for a look at some of my favorite spring looks from London Fashion Week in September.

NEXT MONTH: It’s time for some fun in the sun! Check back in early June for the SOS Travel Guide for Cancun, which is the guide that gave me the idea for SOS Travel. If you think Cancun isn’t for you, think again, because I’ve found an authentic and dare I say classy side to this beautiful beach resort.

Unless otherwise noted, I did not receive any compensation for my travel experiences. For more information, click here.